xampu: desde quando?

gif de xampu

bons tempos em que só tinha um xampu na prateleira…

já reparou na quantidade de xampus e condicionadores nos corredores de mercados e farmácias? fora aqueles que a gente só consegue comprar em salões de beleza, no exterior ou online. tem xampu pra cabelo claro, escuro, branco, tingido, liso, ondulado, cacheado, oleoso, seco, misto, normal, com óleo de não sei o que, proteína não sei das quantas, pra diminuir fiapinhos, pra neném, criança, adolescente e adulto, pra deixar o cabelo macio, brilhante, pra fazer crescer, pra dar volume, pra diminuir o volume, pra reparar, pra nutrir, pra “purificar a raiz”, com sal, sem sal, com parabeno, sem parabeno, com sulfato, sem sulfato, com corante, sem corante, pra “detox capilar”, pra não cair, pra não ter caspa, xampu a seco, xampu com cheiro de fruta, de ervas, de flor, de xampu… e outro dia vi até um tal de pré-xampu!

e quem foi que disse que sempre foi assim? quando eu era criança, acho que só existiam xampus pra cabelos secos-oleosos-normais e, no máximo, um de camomila pra quem queria clarear. condicionador? nenhum, o que tinha era creme rinse!

omg im so retro

já experimentou perguntar aos seus parentes mais velhos como eles lavavam os cabelos na infância? ano passado, perguntei aos meus pais e a resposta dos dois foi: com sabonete. pode até parecer que eles têm uns 200 anos de idade, moravam nos cafundós de mg e eram muito humildes, né? mas não: eles têm 67 e 65 anos, nasceram e sempre viveram em bh e são, os dois, de famílias de classe média. eles lavavam os cabelos com sabonete porque não tinha xampu até década de 1950/60 no brasil (ou, pelo menos, aqui em bh)! segundo eles, parece que o primeiro que apareceu por aqui foi o johnson’s, mas não encontrei esse dado online pra confirmar.

xampu é uma palavra boa de falar, né?  xam-pu. ela tem origem na índia: a palavra hindi chāmpo é a forma imperativa do verbo chāmpnā, que significa “pressionar, amassar os músculos”. na era colonial, os ingleses a adotaram, mas só em 1860 foi registrado seu uso com o significado de “lavar os cabelos”.  mas isso não quer dizer que as pessoas não lavavam a cabeça antes de 1860, é claro. a wikipedia diz que desde a antiguidade vários povos usavam ervas e seus extratos como xampu: índia, indonésia (queimavam a casca e a palha do arroz e misturavam essas cinzas com água pra fazer espuma), américa do norte (os nativos usavam o extrato de uma espécie de samambaia) e do sul (na região andina, usavam a água da lavagem da quinoa). no brasil, parece que os índios usavam pó de juá (o fruto do juazeiro).

how to shampoo the hair - new york times, 1908

trechinho de matéria do new york times em 1908, ensinando a usar xampu (na verdade, sabão a base de azeite de oliva) pra cuidar dos cabelos.
(clique na imagem para ver a matéria completa)

os europeus, depois que tiveram contato com os indianos e descobriram que lavar a cabeça com mais do que só água era uma coisa muito legal, passaram a ferver sabão ralado e ervas. os xampus só começaram a ser produzidos e comercializados na europa na virada para o século XX e eram em barra, como os sabões. a forma líquida não tem nem 100 anos: foi inventada em 1927, na alemanha. e o primeiro xampu sintético, mais parecido com os que encontramos hoje em dia, só apareceu na década de 1930!

e aí, deduzi que minhas avós e as irmãs e mães delas também lavavam os cabelos com sabão. se você tiver acesso a fotos da sua avó na juventude, repare no penteado e no estado do cabelo dela. é impressionante imaginar, depois de crescermos achando que xampus, condicionadores e cremes existem desde sempre, que é possível ter um cabelo lindo – e, principalmente, saudável – sem usar milhares de produtos específicos que nos fazem acreditar ser indispensáveis à nossa vida.

vó célia

minha avó célia (<3) e seu cabelo ondulado, por volta de 1940

o brasil é o terceiro colocado no mercado mundial de cosméticos, atrás só dos eua e da china, e é o segundo lugar em vendas de produtos para os cabelos (o primeiro é a china). em 2013, fomos o país que lançou mais produtos para cabelos no mundo. estima-se que em 2019 o mercado mundial de xampus alcance o valor de 25,73 bilhões de dólares. é facinho perceber que vão continuar tentando nos convencer de que precisamos encher nossos boxes com aquele monte de potes…

acontece que os xampus comerciais não necessariamente são bons para a saúde dos nossos cabelos. eles funcionam como detergentes bem agressivos: tiram do couro cabeludo o óleo naturalmente produzido pelo nosso corpo, ressecando o cabelo. e aí, são adicionadas mais substâncias aos xampus para mascarar todos os efeitos negativos dos outros ingredientes e ainda temos que usar condicionador no fio pra melhorar seu aspecto. é só reler os números do parágrafo anterior pra entender que se trata de um círculo intencionalmente vicioso.

além disso, boa parte das substâncias químicas utilizadas na formulação desses produtos é tóxica para nosso organismo e para o meio ambiente. ainda tem a questão das embalagens, que geralmente são de plástico. vou deixar pra falar mais disso em outro post, porque esse aqui já ficou bem grandinho. mas deixo um pequeno spoiler pra quem tá se perguntando “será que tem saída?“: tem sim!

455 Comments

  1. quero saber a resposta e quero saber logo!
    observação 1: sua vó célia era um trem
    observação 2: xam-pu

  2. fernanda quintão

    28 fevereiro, 2016 at 18:01

    sim, resposta em breve!
    * sdds vó célia <3 (presta atenção no corte dela...)
    * xam-pu é bom de falar e de escrever, né?

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